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Tennessee Hiking Adventures Big South Fork November Backpack
View of the Big South Fork from Angel Falls Overlook It was deep into autumn when Johnny and his buddy John Cox embarked on an adventure in the Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area. Over the years both of them have been endeavoring to hike all the trails in this preserve located at the Tennessee/Kentucky line. This five day trip put a big dent in mileage they had left to hike. They left Leatherwood Ford under a gray sky, traveling northbound on the John Muir Trail. After crossing Falling Branch they cruised along the edge of the river and found an exposed flat rock outcrop just above Angel Falls and camped directly on the river. The day was fairly cold and never rose above 50. The camping was a little chilly as a breeze blew off the river.
Departing Leatherwood Ford Riverside campsite on the Big South Fork Next day, they hiked the Grand Gap Loop, a scenic trail which curves along the rim of the Big South Fork. After that five plus miles they work their way to Laurel Fork Creek, then headed up the Laurel Fork Trail. The leaves were mostly down which afforded wider reaching looks in the woods but there was plenty of color on the remaining trees and also on the fallen leaves. This day stayed cool as well and they were glad to make the crossings of Laurel Fork creek dry footed during the 14-mile day.
Big South Fork rockhouse Heading up Laurel Fork The second night was quite cool but they were lucky because the rain that came didn't fall until they were breaking camp, where they had set up in a grove of hemlock trees. So far, hemlock trees are not affected by the woolly adelgid in the Big South Fork as they are affected in other parts of the Appalachian Mountains.
John fords Laurel Fork Fresh Beaver Sign Johnny Hiking in the Rain The third day of hiking was cold and rainy as they cruised on up Laurel Fork before climbing away from it on the Salt Pine Trail, then made their way to the Twin Arches Natural Area, a special locale in the Big South Fork. Here they made a stop at Slave Falls, then saw Needle Arch, which is but one of the many geological features in this special place.
Needle Arch They continued rambling through the Big South Fork, dropping it into the Charit Creek drainage in the vicinity of Jake's Place. This former farm area was successionally reforesting and it was challenging to find a campsite but they finally did farther down along Charit Creek, then got a fire going and set up their tarps as the rain was falling lightly.
Jakes Place Homesite Camp on Charit Creek Rain continued the next day. They cruised to onto the Hatfield Ridge Trail, then dropped back down to Station Camp Creek, eating lunch under the boughs of a thick hemlock. John and Johnny then headed down the Big South Fork to reach Big Island. Here, they head to ford the Big South Fork, amid the cold and rain. Luckily the river was very low, so the actual crossing part wasn't too difficult.
Fall colors at the Big South Fork Big Island Ford After making the ford, they soon found their overnighting spot. That night it rained more but they were on the porch of an old hunter cabin. They were glad to be warm and dry after the 12 mile day. The final day the two of them followed River Trail East 11 miles all the way back to Leatherwood Ford to end their adventure.
Appalachian Trail/Shelton Laurel Backcountry It was early fall when I drove to Camp Creek Bald, straddling the Tennessee-North Carolina State line. My buddies John Cox and Steve Grayson were to meet me later as I set off down the Appalachian Trail, admiring the clear skies and stellar views from this section of the AT, which scrambles over Firescald Ridge amid rocks emerging above the forest.
View of The Blackstack Cliffs from Camp Creek Bald Fall flowers were blooming and it was a great day to be alive and in the Southern Appalachians. I cruised on 4 ½ miles to the Jerry Cabin Shelter, where the day slowly cooled, so I made a warming fire and waited for my comrades to show up. Unfortunately they didn’t show up till late – Steve at 1 am and John Cox the next morning!
Views from the Appalachian Trail at Firescald Ridge
Johnny atop the Blackstack Cliffs
Jerry Cabin Shelter The morning low went to 47°. The three of us left the shelter and headed northbound on the Appalachian Trail, cruising over Coldspring Bald and stopping at the Shelton Laurel Graves, internment of slain Civil War soldiers. We stopped for views at Big Rock, then checked out the meadow atop Big Butt, which appeared to be in the process of being restored. Finally, we left the AT and joined the Green Knob Ridge Trail and headed into North Carolina and the Shelton Laurel Backcountry. Numerous switchbacks took us down to Dry Creek, which truly was dry. We eventually found a little water and had a late lunch, then picked up the Jerry Miller Trail and followed it up to Whiteoak Flats, which is an attractive meadow and former homesite that is becoming grown over.
Views from Coldspring Bald
John Cox checks out the Shelton Laurel Graves on the AT
We found camp in a hemlock flat adjacent to the meadow and relaxed after the 10 mile day. The evening grew dark and windy as a storm was coming but it didn’t rain that night.
Crossing Big Creek on Jerry Miller Trail Johnny poses by colorful sourwood Next morning we hurriedly broke camp. I did get a fire going enough for coffee but then the rain began to fall and it was a wet climb up to the crest of the Appalachians and the Tennessee/North Carolina state line. Once back at Camp Creek Bald we jumped in our vehicles and happily changed clothes enjoying the dry ride home.
AT from Hot Springs, NC to the Smokies It was early December when Johnny and longtime hiking pal John Cox left Hot Springs, NC, southbound on the Appalachian Trail. They made the short uphill walk to Deer Park Mountain shelter, and set up the first camp. They gathered plenty o' wood for the long dark night, but it wasn't quite as cold as they thought it would be.
Winter Skies offer Clear View of the Smokies from Max Patch The hiking got a little tougher as they made the long slug up to Bluff Mountain on a cooling day, eventually making Walnut Mountain shelter, after a 9 miles on the trail. The wind was howlin' up there and thus began a 40 plus hour period of subfreezing temperatures, which qualifies as a "Freeze-out" hike.
Johnny and John at the Walnut Mountain shelter Sunset from Atop Walnut Mountain
The wind was howling the next morning as they continued south, passing some open views from balds being restored. It was a lot of ups and downs getting to Max Patch, where the views were incredible and so was the wind. Beyond the fields of Max Patch, the cold sunny day led them 13 total miles to Groundhog Creek shelter, where we once again had the shelter to ourselves. That is the upside of winter hiking, you have the backcountry to yourselves. (I saw one other hiker in 4 days on the most popular trail in America)
Johnny and John Cox at Max Patch on the Appalachian Trail
The sun soon sunk after getting to the campsite. The two gathered wood aplenty for the cold night, where temps dropped to single digits.
Plenty of wood at the shelter View of John at a warming fire Next day we pushed it south nearly 12 miles, passing I-40, then making Davenport Gap as the sun was lowering on another cold day in the Southern Appalachians. After this hike, I completed the goal of hiking the entire part of the Appalachian Trail where it traverses through or near Tennessee, a total of 280 miles.
Iron Mountain Trail December can mean snow. Bryan Delay and I took off from Backbone Rock Recreation Area in the northeast corner of the Cherokee National Forest near the Virginia border. We headed up a maze of old roads to make the Iron Mountain Trail. The short days and our road guesswork left us fighting dark and trying to find a campsite on a narrow ridgeline. Finally I dropped off a gap and found a flat former logging road by a creek. Just in time!
Bryan with NC in background Iron Mountain Trail at sunset While light snow was already on the ground, we were in for more, and woke up to snow falling and it continued to fall throughout the second day. Our travel slowed and we had to alter our plan, finally setting up camp near a highland stream.
Johnny treks in deepening snow Bryan at second camp It snowed throughout the second day and we woke up to over a foot on the ground! Our planned loop was hopeless, so we broke camp and hiked a few miles to a road near Mountain City, TN, then caught a ride back to the car.
Unnamed Creek in the Cherokee National Forest May is a great time to backpack fishing for trout. Recently, Johnny and buddy Steve "Devo" Grayson embarked on a 4 day trip to Unnamed Creek in the Cherokee National Forest. This Unnamed Creek is one of Johnny's favorite haunts and he refuses to divulge its location to even the webmaster.
The first afternoon was sunny, then major storms moved in, and Johnny got bombed by lightning, thunder and heavy rain, but he still managed to get some fishing in, between rounds of hanging out under the tarp. That night, it was drip, drip, drip under the tarp. Next morning, Johnny got a fire going then cooked pancakes for breakfast, along with coffee, then headed up to the Yellow Birch Campsite. Johnny vying for trout on Unnamed Creek After a respite, he once again tackled Unnamed Creek, this time keeping three for the frying pan. Devo showed up later at the camp, and he went for a late evening session, snagging one dink. Good thing they weren't relying on him for dinner!
Yellow Birch Campsite Brown Trout that were eaten The next day was cool and sunny, a perfect mountain day. Johnny and Devo headed upstream to one of Johnny's favorite campsites, White Pine Campsite, nestled in white pine woods next to a clearing next to Unnamed Creek. Nary a person came by. Along the way, the pair spotted a colony of pink Lady Slippers.
Pink Lady Slippers Devo takes trailside photo The day proved both beautiful and productive, with many trout caught, some ending up in our bellies. What fun! The third night was cool, too. We arose at dawn, enjoying one last mountain morning, before returning to the trailhead, at the lower end of Unnamed Creek, passing beaver dammed side streams, which also held trout.
Fish Eye View of Unnamed Creek Devo fishes from beaver dam Streams, Balds and Tri State Corner on Northeast Tennessee I am always trying to go unvisited places, and so Bryan Delay and I headed to the Cherokee National Forest for a May trip. The weather was great and we loved being in spring and seeing all the wildflowers. First, we headed up Gentry Creek, a beautiful stream with a scenic waterfall. I did a little trout fishing. Gentry Falls Bryan scrambles past Gentry Falls Painted Trillium After camping along the creek, we headed into the high country, following unmaintained trails up to Rogers Ridge. We weren’t sure we were going the right way until we got there. But once atop, the views were spectacular. The bald stretched a long ways.
Atop Rogers Ridge We kept cruising higher, just taking in the atmosphere, then we ran into some fellows from Kingsport, TN and they led us to Tri State Corner, the point where Tennessee, Virginia and North Carolina come together.
Bryan and Johnny at Tri State Corner We returned from Tri State Corner to our fellow Tennesseans, and they made us lunch. We visited around the fire, then headed back down Rogers Ridge, taking more wildflower pictures before heading back to the trailhead. Bryan takes pictures near Gentry Creek Wood betony Unaka Wilderness/Dicks Creek Hike Hiking Tennessee’s Unaka Mountain in the Cherokee National Forest It was a warm spring day when I left Rock Creek Campground in the Cherokee National Forest near Erwin, Tennessee. I soon crested a ridge then dropped into the Dicks Creek drainage. I followed the stream until I found Dicks Creek Falls, by listening for the roar. The fall is hidden by rhododendron. From there I headed over to Limestone Cove, then took the Limestone Cove Trail up nearly 2,500 feet to the upper reaches of Unaka Mountain, where red spruce grow in abundance. Unaka Wilderness Dicks Creek Falls Wake Robin I found a campsite in a gap near a spruce grove. Water wasn’t too far. I surprised at the chill up there. Of course, the leaves were weeks behind those at home in nearby Johnson City. The high country, with its fragrant evergreens was very nice.
Campsite near junction of Limestone Cove and Stamping Ground trails The long May day finally turned dark and I retired. The temperature went down to 50 degrees. Next day I climbed up Stamping Ground Ridge Trail which offers great vistas and interesting vegetation. I had to walk Unaka Mountain Scenic Drive a bit to reach the next trail, Rattlesnake Ridge.
Atop Stamping Ground Ridge on Unaka Mountain I then made then descent from spruce country along Rattlesnake Ridge, dropping 2,500 feet in 3 miles. Many views opened on the descent, especially in the dry, south facing piney areas. Before long I left Unaka Wilderness and was back at Rock Creek Campground.
Big
Laurel Branch Wilderness Bryan Delay and I set forth on the Appalachian Trail near Shady Valley, TN. Bryan was finishing his quest to hike the entire Tennessee portion of the AT, from Damascus, VA to Fontana Lake Dam, on the south side of the Smokies. It was cold and the trees were turning. The chill air brought snow and we stopped at Double Springs Gap shelter, where a fire warmed us through the evening, despite the strong wind.
Icy precipitation continued the next morn, as we kept southbound, reaching the Iron Mountain shelter 8 miles later. The snow was still flyin’ as Bryan went to get water. I was at a fresh fire when Bryan returned with a bag of snow! The spring was dry! We gathered and melted water for snow, grateful for the snow, which provided us with aqua. We kept laughing about going to “gather” water, in the form of snow to melt for food and drink. The fire was warm but the incessant wind kept blowing smoke in our faces.
The next day dawned clear, the snow melted as dropped in elevation. We enjoyed the far reaching views from the crest of Iron Mountain, including the Vandeventer shelter, which we spurned for a campsite in a gap below the shelter. A cold clear night ensued, but the winds were nil. We kept southbound the next day, passing through the Big Laurel Branch Wilderness, circling around Watauga Lake, then climbed Pond Mountain, where we were disappointed had no water.
So we dropped on down to Laurel Fork, my second favorite stream in the world, and camped there. The 14 mile day left us whipped. We camped on the banks of Laurel Fork, enjoying the milder temperatures. The final day we walked up Laurel Fork back to my waiting vehicle. Bryan had then completed his goal of hiking all the AT through Tennessee. Fall Trip in Citico Wilderness This Place is a Gem of the Southern Cherokee National Forest
View from South Fork Citico Trail Late October is a great time to hike Tennessee’s mountains. My pal, Tom Lauria, a South Florida resident, and I headed into the Citico Wilderness for some, hiking, trout fishing, mountain climbing and general camaraderie. The weather was great – warm days, cool nights and just a few drops of rain on a 5 night trip. At 1st camp near Ike Camp Branch I picked Tom up at the airport, then we went on a nightmare grocery run before hitting the South Fork Citico trailhead. After that we found a camp, and cooked steaks for dinner. Next day we set forth up Citico, making the fords, then getting well up the creek before finding a campsite on the creek. The woods were colorful up here. We headed up South Fork, climbing waterfalls for good deep trout pools, landing several small but feisty rainbow trout. Tom with rainbow trout Fall on South Fork Citico Next day we headed up South Fork climbing steeply to Bobs Bald, where it was warm in the sun and cool in shade. Fall had taken over at this mile-high destination. At Cold Springs Gap Almost to the Top We soaked in the rays, ate lunch, then made the drop to Naked Ground. After that we took the rough upper Slickrock Trail through seemingly endless rhododendron thickets, arriving down on Slickrock Creek just before dark. Tom was whipped and sat there while I did all the chores. I laughed every time he groaned in pain.
View from Bobs Bald We decided to do a little fishing while on Slickrock, so traveled the next day just a couple of miles to a nice, wide flat of a campsite. We went on a couple of fishing sessions, and enjoyed the above average temperatures. That afternoon, thunder sounded in the distance but very little rain fell. Our fourth night was windy as a front was moving through, promising colder temperatures.
Cold foggy Crowder Place campsite View from Pine Ridge Trail After yet another pancake breakfast, the two of us climbed Big Stack Gap Branch Trail then made camp at Crowder Place, which was cold and foggy. We listened to football and hung out by the fire, lamenting our last night in the mountains. A real chill set on the camp that night. Our final day we took Fodderstack Trail to Pine Ridge Trail and took it back to the car, completing our 5 night loop.
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