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Past Paddling Adventures Virginia
Johnny with 19 plus inch smallmouth The famed New River was the destination for this adventure. Johnny and pal Kent Roller headed to Southwest Virginia near Radford to paddle and fish the New, which starts in North Carolina, then flows north into the Old Dominion before flowing on into West Virginia, where it cuts the New River Gorge of whitewater fame. They went on a 35 mile 3 night trip.
New River at Sunset Kent fishes for bass below Arsenal Rapids Kent and Johnny took off under cloudy skies and immediately began catching smallmouth bass, bream and rock bass. It would continue that way nearly the entire trip. The New has long placid stretches as well as some serious rapids as it cuts through the mountains. The first big rapids, Arsenal Rapids, the two of them pulled the canoe around, then fished below. The day wore on as the low water made for tedious passage but they eventually made an island for camp.
Massive bluffs border the massive New River Next morning, the day was sunny and they had to paddle through grasses that inhibited the fishing. But the water begin moving once they got to "The Shallows" a rocky section that was very challenging to get through, but they had to get out just a few times. The rock shoals and rapids proved to be fertile fishing grounds so they didn't mind. After lunch they scouted then ran Big Falls. At low water the rapid wasn't pushy but had lots of rock. The drops were fun actually. Like doing
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That afternoon Kent nailed a big smallmouth, then Johnny got a 19", then a 19 1/2 inch smallmouth in a 30 minute span. Wow! The afternoon wore on and a campsite was hard to come by, as the New is somewhat populated and has a railroad along it (Don't worry the fishing and scenery are worth it.)
Looking upstream from Clendenin Rapid More great fishing and river running characterized the 3rd day. Horseshoe Rapids was fun. Since the third day was a Saturday, the river was busy with paddlers and many people were gathered at Horseshoe Falls to watch the canoeists and kayakers ply the river -- of course a few didn't make it. The pair cruised on and found a nice gravel bar, stopping early as not to pass up the gravel bar after having troubles finding a campsite the night before.
Gravel Bar Campsite on New River They fished their way down the river on a cool morn. They fished hard while dropping over the last rapids trying to be the last man to catch a fish on the river, taking out in Bluff City. Kent caught the final fish. More New River Scenes
Confederate Flag painted on a rock outcrop. This is the South, baby!
A canoe camping trip down the New River offers scenery like this
Kent with smallmouth bass
Its hard to believe the enormity of the New River
Mountains often crowd the New River in Southwest Virginia
Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area Leatherwood Ford to Blue Heron
View of Big South Fork National River Johnny and his girlfriend Pam Morgan embarked from Leatherwood Ford in early June, setting out on a 27 mile paddle adventure through the Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area. The day started out sunny and the river was low, running around 200 cfs. It wasn't long before they reached Angel Falls and the mandatory portage. With plenty of camping gear the portage took a while but the two of them jumped in for a nice swim after they were done.
Johnny at Leatherwood Ford Leatherwood Ford Launch Late spring flowers were blooming along the shore. Tan bluffs stood out among the lush forest. The occasional rapids sped up the paddle and added some excitement to the stellar national park level scenery. After 5 miles they found a camp on the left bank. The hollow of a feeder stream spilled cool air onto the campsite, which overlooked the Big South Fork.
Pam sets up the tent Big South Fork paddle campsite Next day, the two of them loaded up and paddled through what is known as the Dead Sea, a long calm stretch with only a few shoals. They fished some and Pam nailed a smallmouth bass. Upon entering Kentucky the rapids resumed, and unfortunately a little rain fell. They continued downriver under dark skies.
Johnny paddles a rapid on the Big South Fork After 20 plus miles of paddling, it was clear they were going to make the Devils Jump portage, having had trouble finding a campsite. So they made the portage and took out at Blue Heron, ending a long second day on the river.
Bluffs on the Big South Fork
Paddler on Big South Fork
Devils Jump Rapid
Johnny and friend Mark Carroll embarked on their 300 mile sea kayaking trip down the Mississippi River. The pair left Memphis, Tennessee in the late afternoon after having set up their car shuttle down in Vicksburg, Mississippi.
Mark paddles away from downtown Memphis The afternoon sun shone upon downtown Memphis as they made it just a short distance to the first of many campsites on the gigantic sandbars that characterize the Mississippi River when it is low, such as it is in fall. They picked this time of year for three reasons: cooler temperatures, fewer bugs and the gigantic sandbars. Early morning at a sandbar campsite overlooking the river The weather during the 10 day trip ranged from highs in the mid 80s to lows in the 40s. The first few days were sunny and clear with brilliant fall skies. Light winds made the paddling less challenging. But be apprised that the current of the Mississippi River is strong but you still have to paddle, especially making the average 30 miles per day that we were making. You also have to be wary of the boils, whirlpools and big waves, especially on the sharper bends of the river.
Width of the river Johnny's sunglasses fell apart on the trip Tugboats are always around -- it is their river. We always gave them a wide berth and did not want to be a hazard to navigation.
Barges came in all shapes and sizes Wildlife was abundant -- we saw deer, beavers, coyotes and birds aplenty, including bald eagles and osprey. The fall migration along the Mississippi flyaway was underway. We saw the "V" pattern of the avian set day after day.
Beauty was abundant on the Big Muddy Terrible storms came in for a few days and we were faced with serious headwinds. One day the winds were going at 20 to 30 miles an hour against us with gusts to 40. We left early in the morning to avoid the strongest winds and by mid afternoon they were whipping the river up into such a frenzy and combined with the dark skies we set up an early camp.
Johnny contemplates windy paddle ahead Mark with storm behind him near Greenville Our shortest full paddling day was 25 miles and the longest 40. We were pushing ourselves and the sea kayaks to the limit. The day after day long distances took a toll on us but the challenge was fun.
Below are a few more river pictures ...
Fire warms us at rainy camp near mouth of White River
This picture gives an idea of the height of the sandbars on the Mississippi River
View from river island Mark finds driftwood and brings it to camp
Sunrise on the Mississippi River
Kayaker view of a sandbar
Pink Skies at campsite near Helena Arkansas
Downtown Helena
Mississippi River sandbar breakspot Mark along a wall of riprap
Sea Kayaking the Suwannee River from the Okefenokee Swamp to Suwannee River State Park 120 Mile Trip
Johnny with Mark Carroll and Frank Carroll fixing to embark from Stephen C. Foster State Park It was late March when the three hombres from previous sea kayaking adventures took off from the Okefenokee Swamp in Georgia, and began a 120 mile, 5 day trek down the Suwannee River for Sea Kayaker magazine. The weather was ideal, with warm days and cool nights. We bit off a lot of miles, having to average 24 per day, but we wanted to start the river at its source, and see the big gators for which the Okefenokee is known. We weren't disappointed either, at Billys Lake. They were big!!!
Frank plies Billys Lake Paddling the Suwannee River Narrows Billys Lake led to the Suwannee River Narrows, where a swift current twisted and dodged amid big trees, then led past the Suwannee River Sill, an old dam, and headed for Fargo, GA. We camped on a low rise of land, amid pines and oaks.
Frank and Mark in burgundy shallows Waterfall on the Suwannee River
The river than led us through giant tupelo and cypress trees growing forth from the middle of the river. It was quite scenic and it kept us on our toes. A hard day of paddling brought us to Florida, where we camped atop a giant sandbar shaded by a live oak.
Campsite on giant sandbar above Suwannee River The spring greens, live oaks, and Spanish moss, combined with crystalline white sandbars, dark water, occasional waterfalls from side streams created a scenic mosaic that we beheld. The portage at Big Shoals went well, and we camped at the shoals, being serenaded by Florida's biggest rapid overnight.
Johnny-eye view of Big Shoals portage Despite the river being low and slow, we progressed down the river, passing White Springs, a river town. Speaking of springs, we saw many clear and sulphuric springs on the river's edge, which added an extra touch. At Suwannee Spring, we pulled over to explore the old springhouse. We did back to back long days of 29 and 34 miles respectively. Needless to say, we relaxed a lot at camp! The final night we camped back in the woods, well back from the river, just for a change of pace. All too soon we were pulling into Suwannee River State Park, where we had left my jeep. I shuttled Mark and Frank back up to their car in Georgia, another adventure under our belts.
Missouri's Wild and Scenic Eleven Point River
Good Look Along the River Canoe at base of riverside bluff Johnny, along with brothers Mike and Steele set out near Alton Missouri in the Ozark's for a 5 day 50 mile paddle trip on the Eleven Point River. The Eleven Point has plenty of attributes – giant springs pouring cool clear water into the main river stem, rock bluffs that overlook paddlers, caves honeycombing the surrounding hills, hiking trails emanating from the river to access land features, gravel bars that make superlative campsites and lush woods, including the Irish Wilderness, bordering a 44-mile protected river corridor. The weather was clear and relatively cool for July in the Ozarks. The spring fed Eleven Point offered a cool respite for swimming and also good waters for trout. The Molloy crew ate trout for supper two nights.
Mike and Steele at put-in Matt with camp fish The cool, clear river gathers from eleven feeder streams above Thomasville, Missouri, hence the name, then cuts an easterly swath into the Mark Twain National Forest, before turning south to enter Arkansas. Rapids are primarily Class I, but a few Class II shoals keep the paddling lively. Several access points make finding a trip of your desired length very doable. In addition to gravel bars, the national forest has built float camps along the river. These consist of upland wooded areas near the river that have picnic table, fire ring, lantern post and privy.
Johnny cooking trout at gravel bar campsite with bluff in the background
Molloy family at campsite on Eleven Point River Johnny and his family paddled on into Arkansas, taking out at Dalton. Big rains fell on the last night, and the river rose but they got off before the flood hit downriver.
Dam and mill turbine at Boze Mill Spring Post rain paddle through the fog
Canoeing West Virginia's Greenbrier River
Mountains Line the Greenbrier River
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Johnny and friend Kent Roller left Marlinton, WV in early June, setting out
on a 5 night, 60 mile trip down the Greenbrier River. The weather was cool
and cloudy, but the fish started biting immediately, smallmouth bass mostly.
They cruised downriver and began looking for camp, pulling over at a gravel bar.
Johnny went into the woods, and the canoe slipped off the shore. Kent valiantly
dashed through the water to retrieve the escaping boat, taking a spill in the
process.
Bank fishing near wildflowers Rail Trail crosses Greenbrier River After a cool night the two pressed down the river, fishing and enjoying the scenery on a cloudy day. The fishing remained good. A rain hit the second night, but it was welcomed as the river was low, sometimes forcing them to walk the canoe through shallows.
The clear river shone in the sun, as the clouds gave way to sun for the next days. The campsites remained nice, including the last night, where Johnny and Kent camped directly beside the Greenbrier River Rail Trail, in a campsite designed for trail and river users. They got to enjoy part of the 60 plus mile old railroad grade, and saw other trail users.
Overall, the trip is highly recommended, as it is hard to find mountain rivers that can be canoed for long distances without getting into rough rapids.
Johnny at post marking the miles on the Greenbrier River Rail Trail
Kent's Double Double A fishing highlight of the trip was Kent's Double Double. He caught a smallmouth bass and a rock bass on the same lure at the same time! |
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Four nights to Black River Confluence Brother Mike and decided to float the Spring River in the Ozark Foothills. We started at the fish hatchery near the Missouri border on a rainy October day. We didn't float far before we were catching trout. We fished so much we only made two miles, finding a campsite in the woods. We needed many trees to hang the tarps up as rain was slated to continue. Got a fire going and cooked trout for dinner, along with some mashed potatoes.
Mike and I at put-in Mike on the Spring River We awoke to a solid rain, but broke camp anyway. The day remained dark, even as rain came and went. The Spring River has many steep ledges, some of which we couldn't get over in a loaded boat, so we had to walk the boats through the chutes. We made 6 miles, and found a campsite on a grassy shoreline
Foggy camp Drying stuff off Next day, we had more ledges to get over and became bolder, just going for the chutes despite the steep drops. We had a hard time traveling, though, as the fishing was so good we kept staying in the same spot rather than heading downriver.
Ledge on the Spring River The next day cleared and we enjoyed the sunshine. We drifted below the trout zone and moved to catching bass and bream. More shoals and ledges kept the paddling lively as we went through the town of Hardy. That area had a couple of big ledges that required a pull over. The gravel bars tapered off and we had a hard time finding a campsite, but found a leaf covered flat spot. around dark. The stars shined bright on us as we cooked taters, onions and brats over the fire.
Another ledge near Hardy Lower Spring River The last day was rainy, then turned very cold. We met the Black River, then had to paddle 3 tough miles UPSTREAM to Old Davidson State Park. It made for a 19 mile final day that was all paddling and no fishing, but we had caught so many trout on the upper Spring we couldn't complain.
Land Between The Lakes National Recreation Area 100 Mile Kayak Trip on Kentucky Lake and Lake Barkley Friend and real photographer Mark Carroll joined Johnny as they circled Land Between The Lakes National Recreation Area. Look at the middle of a map of the United States and try to find a body of water with 300 miles of undeveloped shoreline. Only one place exists - LBL. Here, paddlers travel along bays and bluffs of Kentucky Lake and Lake Barkley, a pair of man-made impoundments that arose from the damming the Tennessee and Cumberland rivers. A short canal connects the two lakes so adventurous paddlers can circumnavigate the long peninsula of LBL, making a near loop separated at its ends by less than 10 miles of land. Paddlers can go for days without backtracking and still end up fairly close to their car and point of origin. The shortest possible route of an LBL peninsula circumnavigation is 85 miles, without exploring or making any side trips. Add exploration and this route can be extended by many miles and from five days to over two weeks with16 boat landings and 9 campground boat launches at LBL.
Catchin' a Bream Gravel bar on Kentucky Lake We took off from Boswell Landing and headed north on Kentucky Lake, making a late campsite. Next day we headed north, passing the KY 68/80 bridge, then found a nice gravel bar campsite, and waited for the remnants of a hurricane to arrive. It was so still that evening, it seemed the weather radio was lying. The winds and rain came, pushing us ever northward the next day. There were no other boaters out on this dark day. We hunkered under a tarp, pressed against a bluff, and waited for the storm to pass, which it did overnight.
Clay Bluff on Kentucky Lake Drying Map Under the Tarp The skies were clearer as we cut through Barkley Canal and entered Lake Barkley. The skies kept clearing as we rounded the horn and turned south. We found a campsite beside an old homesite, that was worth exploring. The evening turned starry and crystalline, though a little cooler than the night's previous.
Campsite with old homesite back in woods on Lake Barkley We continued down Lake Barkley. The Lake Barkley portion of the circumnavigation is longer - 50 miles, and that is traveling in this shortest route possible with no side tripping. Barkley has 1,004 miles of shoreline, so there is no shortage of coves to explore. It is narrower than Kentucky Lake and Barkley is riddled with shallows so barges and bigger boats often follow the channel that swings all over Lake Barkley tracing what was once the meandering path of the old Cumberland River. Slender islands pock the lower lake, potentially causing navigational problems. Not all these islands are shown on maps, further complicating route finding. In spring, when Barkley is at its highest, more passages between islands will be open. Be especially cautious in fall, when the lake is lower. If you pick the wrong side of an island to paddle you may end up in a dead end mudflat and have to backtrack, or will be prevented from accessing the LBL side of the lake for camping opportunities. Barkley’s shoreline is more continually forested with fewer gravel bars and bluffs, making finding a backcountry campsite more challenging. Don’t wait until just before dark and expect to find a campsite. Give yourself ample time to explore peninsular points and creek mouths for a suitable tenting locale. Campsites can be harder to find, especially when compared to Kentucky Lake. As a final resort, Barkley’s lake access points at road ends can be your backup campsites. These lake access points can also be used for starting or ending trips.
Johnny On Lake Barkley Next morning, we sipped coffee expectantly watching a warming sunrise in the east. The two of us returned to the main channel of the Cumberland River, unwilling to chance the straits between the islands. Ahead, two deer swim onto a willowy island from LBL, then shake off as they reach dry land. Upon seeing Neville Bay (the grassy lake access is visible from the main lake), we keep the LBL shoreline within view. It is imperative to find Neville Bay, otherwise you might miss Gatlin Point Campground ramp, the final LBL take-out, as several very long narrow islands block Gatlin Point from view if paddlers follow the marked river channel. Mark’s car waits at Gatlin Point and we drive back to Boswell Landing, ending our circumnavigation.
Tracing Lewis and
Clark while Paddling The Missouri Wild and Scenic River was the destination on this trip. Three of us flew to Great Falls, Montana and set out on the mighty Missouri from Fort Benton, following the path of Lewis and Clark on the 200th anniversary of the greatest adventure the United States has ever seen. I was joined by Tom Lauria, Vic Alvarez and Al "Big Man" Farrell. The scenery was fantastic!
Johnny
at a campsite where Lewis and Clark
Stayed on the Missouri River in Montana We were immediately impressed with the scenery – the rock bluffs, wide, fast moving river and green groves of cottonwood contrasting with the blue sky. The greenhorns of the crew -- Al and Vic – were adapting nicely. The sun beat daily as we cruised through the White Cliffs so eloquently described by Meriwether Lewis back in 1805.
On the Missouri Our paddling trip of 150 miles was broken by day hikes to high vistas, through slot canyons, to intriguing rock formations such as the Hole-in-the-Wall and to historic points, such as the knob where William Clark first beheld the Rocky Mountains, which the Corps of Discovery was to surmount. The hike to Clark’s vista point was long and hot. Truthfully, we weren’t sure we reached the exact point as it wasn’t marked. A highlight was camping among ancient and giant cottonwoods at a Corps of Discovery campsite. These trees may have shaded Lewis and Clark. All the riverside campsites were desirable, however. The settings were panoramic and the company was enjoyable. The “musquetors” were next to nil. Sadly, the trip ended after a week and we flew back east, having executed a classic American adventure. Paddling Buffalo National Wild and Scenic River Another adventure was a 6 night canoe camping trip on the Buffalo River of Arkansas with my oldest brother Steele. The Buffalo is one of our country's oldest wild and scenic rivers and on of the few places in the East that you can go extended river trips without seeing anything but an occasional bridge. In early October, we started at Tyler Bend. The water was 1.8 feet. Bluff on the Buffalo River, Arkansas
We started catching bass and bream right off. The weather was warm and we really enjoyed camping on those pebble bars, across from sheer canyon walls, tipped with pines and other trees. We saw numerous birds, including bald eagles, as we scraped over a few shoals. Of course, no trip would be complete without a little rain. Another adventure was an 8 night canoe camping trip in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness with John Cox. We left Knoxville Sunday September 5th for the 1200 mile torture drive to Ely, MN, stopping at a friend's cabin in northern Wisconsin on the way. Boundary Waters, Minnesota Hit the water from Fall Lake on Labor Day and soon left the crowds behind. So the first fish I catch is a pike, about 8 pounds. It's trying to get under a log and I'm holding the rod and the rod breaks, the pike cuts the line. The rod is broken, the lure and leader are gone! But John has a rod that I can use, leaving us with two rods each. Later I caught another pike that had a snake half digested and hanging out its mouth! |
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The two discussed the possibility of paddling other parts of the Greenbrier, as
there is 27 miles above Marlinton to paddle, and 44 miles below to paddle, from
their takeout point, which was Caldwell, WV. Another possibility is to
paddle down river, then take the Greenbrier River Rail Trail back upstream to
the put-in!
