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Past Hiking Adventures Backpacking at Yosemite National Park
Johnny and Tom depart the High Sierras I took a trip to California, ostensibly to see the University of Tennessee Volunteers football team play the UCLA Bruins. Yosemite – the land of granite However, before the game my friend Tom Lauria and I went backpacking at Yosemite National Park. It is the crown jewel of the High Sierras—a land of granite domes, dramatic waterfalls, alpine lakes, and enough trails to keep you busy for many a year. If you haven’t been here before consider giving it a shot. The classic tourist places such as Yosemite Valley are good for auto touring but it is in the backcountry where you can really get the sense of remoteness that is found in Yosemite National Park.
Granite Mountains Sunset on Chain Lakes How Yosemite Came to Be “Inspired by the scenic beauty of Yosemite and spurred on by the specter of private exploitation of Yosemite's natural wonders, conservationists appealed to Senator John Conness of California. On June 30, 1864, President Abraham Lincoln signed a bill granting Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias to the State of California as an inalienable public trust. This was the first time in history that a federal government had set aside scenic lands simply to protect them and to allow for their enjoyment by all people.”
Johnny Fishes Chain Lakes We took off from the south end of the park and headed for the South Fork Merced River. Central California was in the midst of a heat wave so temperatures were mild in the normally chilly Sierras. We camped on it for two nights before heading into the Chain Lakes, which offered superlative alpine scenery. We fished the Chain Lakes, catching many trout and hiked around the treeline.
Campsite on South Fork Merced River They then headed to the car and on to the Tennessee-UCLA game.
Backpacking Harper Creek in the Pisgah National Forest North Carolina
Pam heading into Harper Creek Sometimes it's a great idea to head to a lesser used destination that is near a more popular area. Harper Creek, in North Carolina's Pisgah National Forest, is very near the more popular Linville Gorge Wilderness, which is so heavily used that you must get permits to backpack there. The Harper Creek area on the other hand, offers huge waterfalls, good trout fishing and a more rugged experience. The trails are lesser maintained, and have many stream fords, though a portion of the Mountains-to-Sea Trail goes through it.
Hiking the Harper Creek Trail Pam looks on South Harper Creek Falls Johnny and his girlfriend Pam left obscure Forest Road 56 and headed to South Harper Creek, finding a campsite that was full of holly trees but the thorns were not bothersome. It was a nice mountain night around the fire and the two of them slept out in the open.
Campsite on Harper Creek
Next morning, a morning shower came and they've felt fortunate not to be caught in the rain. When they left camp, the trail was very overgrown and the wet brush soaked them. Undeterred, they went to a lookoff of the South Harper Creek Falls before joining the Mountains-to-Sea Trail, which led down to Raider Camp Creek, with off and on rain.
View of Grandfather Mountain from rock outcrop on Mountains-to-Sea Trail
After joining Harper Creek, they headed upstream and came to the centerpiece of the area -- Harper Creek Falls. Since it was a Saturday there were many people swimming and playing around the falls. To access the granite area and pool between the upper and lower falls you had to take a rope down to the flat.
Rope leads to area between upper and lower Harper Creek Falls Shortly thereafter, a typical summer thunderstorm fell and drenched Johnny and Pam. They pitched the tarp real quick and waited the storm out, eating lunch beneath the plastic shelter. Nonetheless, they headed on upstream and found a campsite, then commenced to start a fire and dry themselves and everything else off.
Johnny after the storm and another ford of Harper Creek That evening Johnny fished a little, but they mostly relaxed, enjoying the cool weather in the mountains. The clouds held fast all night long.
Pam fords Harper Creek Next day, they took it up the Persimmon Ridge Trail back to the car, completing the loop.
More Harper Creek Scenes
Granite face on Harper Creek
Upper section of Harper Creek Falls
Persimmon Ridge Trail Mount Rogers High Country Trek Johnny has had the distinct pleasure to update and revise his Mount Rogers book. To that end, Johnny and long time friend John Bland took a three night tour of the Mount Rogers High Country. They started at Elk Garden, and took the Virginia Highlands Horse Trail To Deep Gap, barely reaching a designated campsite before dark, since they waited at the trailhead for summer storms to abate.
Mount Rogers High Country offers a superlative scenery Next morning, John and Johnny continued their scenic loop using a combination of trails to circle around Wilburn Ridge, then descend into the Wilson Creek drainage where they set up camp. The weather started foggy but then cleared off. Despite being July, the temperatures never rose above 70°.
John Bland crossing stile Johnny trekking a mile high Their campsite was a mixture of woods and meadows beside the raging torrent that is Wilson Creek. Johnny engaged in his usual campfire cooking, conjuring up a meaty gastronomic challenge that left John reeling. Overnight, a light drizzle saturated these majestic highlands, but didn't dampen their spirits nor get them wet since they were sleeping under a red maple.
Ponies in the High Country Rock Outcrop on Pine Mountain Next day, they ate blueberries on their way to Scales. From there they took the Crest Trail, which has unbelievable views, then joined the Pine Mountain Trail, trodding onward among the rock outcrops, heath balds, and fairy tale-like spruce fir woodlands.
John Bland and Johnny have a laugh at their camp beside Wilson Creek Beyond Pine Mountain, the pair walked in the shadow of Mount Rogers before dropping down on the Cabin Ridge Trail, finding a remote campsite. A high country drizzle ensued, but Johnny simply set up the tarp and they proceeded to enjoy the evening unhampered by the precipitation. John was challenged by the evenings fare: kielbasa, pinto beans and rice. A moon rose overnight, illuminating the nearby meadows. Next day, the pair took the Appalachian trail back to Elk Garden, Completing another adventure in the Mount Rogers High Country. Want to go on your own adventure at Mount Rogers? Check out this book!
Mount Rogers
Enjoy all the natural beauty that Mount Rogers National Recreation Area has to offer with the first comprehensive guide to this reserve in southwestern Virginia. With complete descriptions and condensed trail lists, it's easy to pick among scenic, remote, easy, or challenging trails. Waterway descriptions, tips for fly and spin-cast fishing, and recommended scenic drives are also included. Middle Prong Wilderness/Shining Rock Wilderness It was a cold December day just after Christmas when Kevin Thomas, Bryan Delay And I drove to the Pisgah National Forest. we started our hike near Sunburst Campground, heading up the Haywood Gap Trail, entering the Middle Prong Wilderness.
Entering Middle Prong Wilderness Bryan and Johnny at camp on Middle Prong We went a little over 3 miles to a great campsite near Grassy Cove Branch. The temperatures dropped below freezing bug weren't bad. Clouds came the next morning, then the rains started as we ate breakfast. We hurriedly packed and hiked in the rain to Buckeye Gap, near the Blue Ridge Parkway. We then hike to more miles and ate lunch under a somewhat dry layer of thick balsams. We resumed our walk and left the middle prong wilderness and headed up the flat Laurel Creek. A 10 plus mile day found us at a wet camp on a hillside above Laurel Creek. We battled to start a fire, Kevin getting most of the credit. The winds followed the end of the rain and we bedded down shortly after dark. The sky cleared the next day as we headed out toward Black Balsam Knob, entering the Shining Rock Wilderness. The views were great, but it was very windy on the crest, as we traveled up in over knobs, ate lunch, then went to Shining Rock Gap on the way to a great campsite. Later we climbed up to Shining Rock which offered a great 360° view.
Sun sets at Shining Rock Gap Snow falls at dark on camp The next morning we rose to 14° in snow. The morning was bitter. We cut through to Ivestor Gap, dropping back down to the low lands on the Fork Mountain Trail, ending our trip with a ford.
Johnny on Fork Ridge Trail Winter view of the North Carolina mountains
on the Swamp Fox Passage and Awendaw Passage of the Palmetto Trail in coastal South Carolina
John Cox and Johnny at campsite on Alligator Creek on Swamp Fox Passage The Palmetto Trail is South Carolina's master path. Plans call for it to extend from the mountains of the Upstate to the ocean in the Lowcountry. Johnny and friend John Cox recently trekked the last 50 miles of the Palmetto, going from Lake Moultrie through the Francis Marion National Forest all the way to Buck Halls Recreation Area, located on the Intracoastal Waterway near the Atlantic Ocean. Buck Hall marks the eastern terminus of the Palmetto. It was late when they left Canal Recreation Area near Lake Moultrie beginning the fall hike, and fully dark by the time they reached the first campsite. A cold front had moved in so the evening fire was needed. Next morning they crossed Wadboo Swamp, a gorgeous blackwater steam bordered by big cypress, tupelo and bottomland hardwoods. The path left the swamp for longleaf pine forest, complemented by colorful sweetgum trees. The tread was mostly grass, and was easy on the feet. The level nature of the trail also allowed the two to reel off miles. The second day they covered 12 miles and still had plenty of time to relax despite the short days of fall.
Johnny hiking through pines Indian ghost pipe on the Palmetto They drank swamp water, which is hard for some people to get used to. And there was plenty of swamp along the way, usually along creeks, which were bridged. At Alligator Creek, they camped in slender oaks, making a warm fire for another chilly night. Continuing south and east they passed through a lot of grassy open areas, and Johnny, going against is own inner voice, walked on in short pants, getting a good dose of chiggers. However, the mosquitoes weren't bad at all.
Hooded pitcher plants Cypress turns color near Little Hellhole Bay The third day was a 13 miler, alternating between creeks and pine stands. At times, the trail traced old logging railroads, which were arrow straight and elevated to stay above the bordering wetlands. The day clouded over and they were glad to make the Turkey Creek campsite, which was in pine/sweetgum flats above Turkey Creek, which was bordered by wooded floodplain. The evening was much warmer. Our final day was the longest and the hottest. They trekked through more pines, but also oak forests and through evergreen shrub bogs, much of it still on the straight grades. The elevated grades allowed them to enjoy otherwise wet areas with dry feet.
This hike is in the above book, 50 Hikes in South Carolina The final night they camped on Steeds Creek a tidally influenced freshwater stream. The gorgeous blackwater stream was bordered by colorful fall hardwoods. A chilly dip washed off the accumulated sweat. The final day, they joined the Awendaw Passage of the Palmetto Trail, traveling along a tidal saltwater stream bordered by grassy marshes. The final 5 miles were simply stunning, looking out on Awendaw Creek from a wooded bluff, crossing numerous boardwalks over salty tributaries, shaded by palms and live oaks.
Awendaw Creek as seen from the Palmetto Trail
Ellie Connolly and I started in early August for a cross island traverse of Isle Royale National Park. We started on the Minong Trail and camped at Todd Harbor. The mosquitoes were troublesome. We jumped some ridges and made our next short day to Little Todd Harbor. Took a swim, then explored the shoreline.
Lake Superior shoreline Typical trailside aspen woods We left to climb Mount Desor, and enjoyed great views along Minong Ridge, then made camp at Lake Desor. I tried to fish but no luck.
View atop Mount Desor
Ridgetop view of Superior Grass waves in the stream
We left Lake Desor the next day and trucked it all the way to Windigo, then took the ferry on back to the mainland, ending our trip at Isle Royale.
Sunset on the lake
Johnny and hiking pal Bryan Delay traversed the length of the 37 mile Buffalo River Trail during the fall season. They had stellar weather. After leaving the upper terminus at the Ponca trailhead late in the afternoon, the two of them wound up at Arrington Creek, where they listened to the Vols beat Georgia.
Johnny and Bryan under rockhouse beside Buffalo River They continued along the ridge above Boxley Valley, known for its elk population, then stopped by the Villinas homestead, then completed the 9 mile day at a campsite on the Buffalo River. They fished some nearby holes, catching a few bass and bream.
Villinas Cabin Campsite in woods near Buffalo River The next day had the most ups and downs, as they climbed over mountains and back down to the Buffalo River. They entered the Ponca Wilderness and ended up camping on Beech Creek, where a cool breeze drifted down the valley. Johnny trekked up to Big Bluff, on of the largest on the river, while fishing. Bryan relaxed at the campsite. Overlooking Buffalo near Steel Creek Bryan splits rock walls The climbs eased up and they stayed mostly along the river, then camped on a gravel bar overlooking a bluff. The day was warm and cloudy, but little rain. Next day, they passed through the historic Erbie area, where homesites aplenty are fun to explore. Old fields allowed views of the mountains.
This book details 50 hikes that take place in the Ozark Mountains of Arkansas and Missouri, from the Buffalo Wild and Scenic River and Ozark National Forest of the Natural State, where incredible views await the hiker, to the special destinations of Missouri, including the highlands of Taum Sauk Mountain and the open vistas of Hercules Glades Wilderness in the Show Me State. Many treks along the master paths of the Ozarks, the Ozark Trail and the Ozark Highlands Trail, are included. The wind blew later that day, the sky cleared and cooled off. Despite the frontal passage, they managed to catch a few fish in a hole directly in front of camp.
Bryan casts a line Johnny at gravel bar campsite The final day, they took it on in to Pruitt Landing and ended their trip, just as an icy mix was falling.
Alaska's Resurrection Pass Trail Scott Davis and Johnny flew from Washington, D.C. to Anchorage, got a ride then took off for the Resurrection Pass Trail in the Chugach National Forest. While at the trailhead they met up with Dallas Debatin, who was looking for someone to hike with, as they were entering grizzly country.
Scott and Johnny fixing to backpack in Alaska They headed up fast flowing Resurrection Creek, camping for a couple of days, keeping their days relatively short, til they made it over Resurrection Pass, entering Juneau Creek, which was more fisherman friendly. The scenery was unbelieveable throughout the trip, however, and Johnny was marveling and taking in every moment of the trip. Johnny saw moose and black bear while fishing, as well as Dall sheep on the mountainsides. The weather was mostly cool and cloudy, but little rain.
Sun sets on peak near their campsite on Juneau Creek The water was cold when fishing but they ended up having trout for supper three nights, cooking the trout over the fire. The arctic char were especially good..
Johnny with stringer of fish Fireweed grows all over Alaska Though they didn't see a griz, they saw some huge prints on the trail and Johnny saw prints on streamside sandbars while fishing. Luckily, forest service provided bearproof storage boxes were located at campsites along the trail
Trailside griz prints Johnny, Dallas and Scott at campsite. Note bearbox
Meadows near Swan Lake The last night, Scott had a special surprise. While camped in an aspen grove, a continual strong wind blew a tree over and it fell on Scott's tarp and hit him, but the blow was eased by the tarp ropes and a little luck. Scott made it. Next day they walked out, passing Juneau Falls. Their 7 nights out were over all too soon...
Scott with the tree that fell on him Juneau Falls A Thru Hike of the Florida Trail
Swamp Sloggin' Thru Bradwell Bay Wilderness
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Johnny started the adventure on January 14, at Loop Road, the south trailhead
of the Florida Trail. From there he walked north, walking 1,100 miles in
78 days, averaging 14 miles a day, 7 days a week. The longest day was 26
miles, the shortest day 3 miles.
Near the Gulf at St. Marks Refuge Sunset over Lake Okeechobee Like any long distance thru hike, it had its ups and downs, but far more ups than downs. Johnny met and made new friends, saw beautiful new wild places, and had plenty of adventures -- life's little surprises that will make for a great true adventure story book.
Pines Aplenty on the FT Pitcher plants in Blackwater River State Forest The Florida Trail is underutilized as a hiking resource, and is a great alternative to the busy Appalachian Trail.
Palmetto Prairie Restored Kissimmee River Prairie
Hiking the Florida Trail: 1,100 Miles, 78 Days, Two pairs of Boots and One Heck of an Adventure
"Molloy takes us through an often soggy paradise that few people see or experience. It is a must-read for anyone wanting to hike a mile or 1,100 miles on the Florida Trail. You can almost taste the swamp water." --Doug Alderson, author of Waters Less Traveled: Exploring Florida’s Big Bend Coast |
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Hiking Through Bradwell Bay Wilderness On The Florida Trail February is a good time to be hiking in Florida. Johnny and Bryan Delay set off to to trek a part of the Florida Trail in the Apalachicola National Forest south of Tallahassee. This was Bryan's first backpack in Florida so the experience was brand new for him. The Florida Trail passes thru burned forest
The first five miles had been freshly burned and it was after they had crossed the Ocklockonee River before they could find a campsite. The first camp was amid open pines and it went down to freezing. Next day they entered Bradwell Bay Wilderness and the infamous four mile section of swamp walkin'. Luckily the day had warmed, but they faced deep water, mud and general confusion as the swamp had burned too, yes the swamp burned, too.
This hike is in the above book, the Hiking Trails of Florida's national Forests, Parks, and Preserves The trail was hard to follow. They camped on Monkey Creek, and a big moon brightened their night. Johnny with a black nose after walking thru
burned woods
The final day found them along the Sopchoppy River, which was very scenic. They camped along the Sopchoppy the final night before completing the 40 mile trip near the town of Sopchoppy. Backpacking in the Big Horn Mountains of Wyoming Johnny and long time backpacking buddy Bryan Delay set off in the Big Horn Mountains, specifically inside Cloud Peak Wilderness, which features some of the best alpine scenery in the US. Much of their 7 night backpack was above tree line, but they also explored creeks, lakes and meadows. The fishing was great but the temperatures were cold. They were snowed on 3 times during their 65 mile loop on the Solitude Trail. Bryan and Johnny eating lunch near Geneva Pass They were surprised at how cloudy, cool and rainy and snowy it was, but you just have to play the weather hand you are dealt. But an after effect of the weather are beautiful scenes like the creek by our campsite after an overnight snow.
The beauty and great scenery kept on going from the first step to the last and they were at the car after a very quick 8 day trip. The Cohutta Wilderness of North Georgia was the setting for this 3-night adventure. Johnny and friend Levi Novey, a park ranger whom Johnny met at Everglades National Park set out from East Cowpen Mountain, where the leaves were just budding out, then dropped down into the lowlands via Panther Creek Trail. Panther Falls and the accompanying vista were a highlight of the day. View From Atop Panther Creek Falls We continued down and forded the Conasauga River, then set up camp. The day was cool and clear. After cooking out we slept beneath the stars. Next day we headed for the nearby Hickory Creek Trail, which crossed low ridges broken by creeks aplenty. Finally, the Rice Camp Trail led to Jacks River, where we were determined to do some serious trout fishing. I ended up hooking only one trout but numerous Coosa bass, a smallmouth subspecies that are numerous in North Georgia. Mountain Laurel grows profusely in the Cohutta Wilderness
A big storm hit the next morning -- we were lucky to get breakfast -- French toast -- cooked before the rains hit. Levi led the way as we made our way up Jacks River to another campsite. Unfortunately the rains were persistent, muddying Jacks River and negating the fishing. Strong winds blew, snapping trees within earshot. We slept under the tarp, which was pounded by soaking rains all night. The rivers and creeks were even higher the next morning. We had to do some rugged off trail hiking to avoid a dangerous ford, finally meeting the Hickory Ridge Trail, then trod 8 wet miles back to the trailhead. I’ve hiked every trail in the Cohutta Wilderness and it seems I have been rained on during every trip there! Cumberland Island National Seashore Another adventure occurred in early April, 2003, on Cumberland Island National Seashore. A cold front blew across the Southeast, resulting in less hardy campers canceling their camping reservations. I needed to get on Cumberland for a book, The Best in Tent Camping: Georgia. Cumberland Island has a fantastic campground, but also has four backcountry campsites. After documenting the campground, I set off, northbound on the Parallel Trail, making my way on a cold clear day 11 miles to Brickhill Bluff campsite. The forests were beautiful, live oak stands, pine woods and occasional wetlands. Wildlife was plentiful. Most notable were the wild horses, relics from days gone by, as are the ruins of former mansions. The wind blew hard from the northwest, and I set up camp behind a palmetto thicket. No fires are allowed in the backcountry, so it was a chilly night. At Stratford Beach campsite Next day, I returned south to Stratford Beach campsite, using a variety of trails, passing by Plum Orchard Mansion, which the park service is restoring. The afternoon warmed. I relaxed at the campsite, listening to the pulsing ocean from behind the tall island dunes. Met several other campers and we shared a camaraderie only found on the trails and rivers of our country. An early morning departure was necessary to catch the first ferry back to St. Marys, then I hopped in the jeep and continued exploring Georgia, looking for the best in tent camping. Down in Texas I went down to Central Texas to help write a day hiking guide for greater Austin and San Antonio. The trip was interesting, as I had never hiked the area. I delved into urban greenways, state parks, and other public lands, including the Lost Pines of Bastrop State Forest, Hill Country State Natural Area, and Lake Georgetown. The hikes varied -- some greenways traversed skyscraper canyons, while some hikes in the Hill Country offered solitude aplenty. The February trip has varied weather as well. Austin got its second snow in 15 years while I was down there, other times I could put my flip-flops on at the campsite after hiking. Overall, temps were colder and rainfall was more excessive than normal. On the Comanche Bluffs Trail at Granger Lake The camping was interesting, too. McKinney Falls State Park is very appealing and so close to Austin, Beuscher State Park was quiet -- one of three campgrounds where I was the only mid-week guest. I was lucky enough to have befriended Eric Salys at the Everglades just a month previous. He's an Austinite and went on some hikes with me. Unfortunately, on one hike, an urban greenway in Austin, a thief busted out Eric's window and tried to steal stuff from his car. So much for urban hiking... As usual, the whole trip was a learning experience and an opportunity to see yet more beauty of the great United States.
Off Trail Hiking in the Smokies,
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