|
Mammoth Cave
National Park
The Above Ground Trails Will Surprise
Spring, specifically mid-April,
is the best time to backpack Mammoth Cave National Park, with its 70 miles of
above ground trails and 10 backcountry campsites. The wildflowers here
rival that of the Smokies or any other mountain destination. Waterfalls,
rock houses and historic homesites are other sights to see. The
backcountry is also uncrowded. The only downside is trail conditions,
which can be muddy, due to horse traffic.
Pennywort Raymer Hollow Falls
Sessile Trillium
Longtime backpacking pal Steve “Devo” Grayson and I left Maple Springs
trailhead and trekked up Raymer Hollow Trail. I was GPSing the trails for
my comprehensive guidebook to Mammoth Cave National Park. The leaves were
just popping out and the wildflowers were incredible. We hiked onto Blair
Spring Hollow Trail to Ferguson Hollow Campsite, for a long day. The
evening dropped to 48 degrees.

Fire Pink Author fills water bottle
Kentucky Cacti
We joined the scenic First
Creek Trail, which displays much biodiversity, from hemlocks to cactus.
After descending to the Nolin River, we saw thousands more wildflowers before
heading toward McCoy Hollow to camp. The day had warmed to 80 degrees and
we had had a 15 mile day. The evening cooled down quite nicely, however.
I slept like the dead. Next day we climbed Collie Ridge then passed
through the Dry Prong Buffalo valley, another wildflower rich area.

Bluebells carpet
Wet Prong Buffalo flat
Bluebell close up
After walking Good
Springs Loop, Devo and I joined the Sal Hollow Trail and observed sinks,
overhangs, springs and homesites. I walked out Turnhole Bend Trail, while Devo
waited. I walked down to the Green River, where the bottomland was
electric green and seemingly growing before my eyes. We then we headed
north on Turnhole Bend Trail to camp at Homestead Campsite.

Devo on the Good Springs Loop
Trail
Shooting Star
Another long warm day was followed by a
cool evening. We couldn’t complain about the weather. We were
whipped and relaxed our last night in the Mammoth Cave backcountry. It was
amazing how few people were out here, and didn’t know the beauty of these
Kentucky woodlands.

Old homesite along Sal Hollow Trail
Green River bottomland
It was but a short walk to Maple Springs
trailhead next morning. Devo went back to Virginia, while I continued
working on the Mammoth Cave guidebook.
Want to
explore Mammoth Cave National Park? Get this book!
A Falcon Guide to
Mammoth Cave National Park

ISBN: 0762739975
Belowground, Mammoth Cave National Park in southwestern Kentucky
is part of the largest known cave system in the world.
Aboveground, the park offers two winding rivers, numerous creeks,
and a lush forest full of trails to be explored. Discover all the
activities available in the 50,000-acre wonderland with A Falcon
Guide to Mammoth Cave National Park
Inside you will find:
- a foldout map of the park, complete with trails and activities
- cave tours, boat tours, scenic drives, and picnic areas
- where to walk, hike, bike, paddle, fish and ride a horse
- facts about the area's weather, history, flora and fauna
- lists of park accommodations, campsites, and area B&Bs
Backpacking Past Kentucky's Highest Falls
The warm and early spring day brought thousands upon thousands
of wildflowers as Johnny and fellow backpacking enthusiast Bryan Delay set out
from Yamacraw Bridge in the Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area,
which abuts the Daniel Boone National Forest. Immediately the two of us
broke out our digital cameras and began taking photos of the wildflowers,
including bloodroot, spring beauties and thousands of trout lilies.
|
Trout Lily |
Yahoo Falls (see person in pink at
bottom) |
|
 |
 |
We sweated up a storm as the trees weren't leaved out, allowing
the sun to pound us. We arrived at Negro Creek late in the afternoon and
toured the area, looking for more wildflowers and relaxing. That night we
cooked burgers and the temps only fell to around 50. I got up first as
usual and made the fire and boiled water for the coffee over the fire. We
set out for Yahoo Fall Scenic Area, and made it by lunch. We got multiple
views of Kentucky's highest fall at 113 feet, via trails that form a maze in the
area. Bryan liked the view from the massive cavern behind the falls.
The view from up high was good too. We also visited Yahoo Arch and Markers
Arch, more geologic features, before leaving Yahoo Creek and heading down Negro
Creek.
Johnny and Bryan Lean Against the Log Where the "Spring
Water" Was
Bryan dropped off the side of the steep valley and found a
creekside campsite. We set up camp and hung out when along comes a
horseback rider who knew the area well and regaled us with stories. He
closed by asking if we wanted some spring water. Being a water aficionado,
I followed him to the "spring." We walked only a foot or two behind a log
upon which Bryan and I had been resting.
Then, he leans over and pulls out a jar of moonshine ... the
spring water!!!! We all laughed and he offered us some of the 'shine, then
went on his way. Little did Bryan and I know that we had set up camp right
at a moonshine hidin' spot!
Johnny with the Moonshine on Negro Creek

It was another pleasantly cool evening by the fire. Next
morning we took a side trip past Lick Creek Falls, yet another impressive
cascade with a massive rockhouse beside it. The Lick Creek valley was the
prettiest of them all and our favorite, especially when you include Princess
Falls, also in the Lick Creek Valley. All too soon we were heading back to
the car, another adventure in the can.
Want to backpack Kentucky? Get this book!

Day and Overnight Hikes
Kentucky's
Sheltowee Trace

ISBN: 0-89732-568-0
This book details the 282 miles of
Kentucky’s master path, the Sheltowee Trace. This path was the 100th
designated federal national recreation trail, dedicated in June of 1979. Hikers who tread this trail will be
“following the turtle,” a white painted turtle blazed on trees, extending from
the trail’s southern terminus in Tennessee’s Pickett State Park, north through
the Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area and on through the length
of the Daniel Boone National Forest nearly to the state of Ohio.
Along the way, hikers will see the best of
the Cumberland Plateau, from exquisite aches to bluffs that offer extensive
vistas to waterfalls that descend into sandstone cathedrals. The path treads
through deep forests in gorges cut by creeks and rivers and atop the Plateau,
where oak and pine forests range long distances. Rock houses, caves and other
rock features stand out in these rich woodlands. Some areas through which the
Trace travels are set aside purely for their natural beauty, such as Cumberland
Falls State Park, the Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area, the
Clifty Wilderness, and Red River Gorge Geological Area. With the protection of
these areas has come protection of the plants and animals that live here,
including threatened and endangered species such as the red-cockaded woodpecker,
Virginia big-eared bat, freshwater mussels, and white-haired goldenrod. The
black bear has made a comeback in these parts, expanding its range into eastern
Kentucky from neighboring states, as well as being reintroduced into the Big
South Fork.
Hiking the
northern Sheltowee Trace
The northern end of the Daniel Boone National Forest was the
setting for Johnny’s latest adventure. Here, Johnny took off from Cave Run
Lake on the Sheltowee Trace, walking north on a hot day in a leafless forest.
Johnny hiking Sheltowee Trace near Cave Run Lake in
Kentucky

Thirteen sweaty miles later, Johnny found a camp in a
narrow gap. He set up his Eureka tent, knowing the rains would come.
And they did. He broke camp in the rain, which is never fun, then put on
the poncho and kept on, making 13 more miles, much of it on a storm damaged
trail. The winter of 2003 had brought ice storms to the area and parts of
the Trace were blocked by literally thousands of trees. Johnny persevered,
even through the last 15 miles of the trail, which the forest service had closed
due to the extensive damage. After those last 15 miles, Johnny camped in
Henry Short Hollow, then walked out the last day, completing the entire
Sheltowee Trace!!!!!
Big South Fork
National River and Recreation Area
A recent adventure took place on the Sheltowee Trace in
Kentucky. Johnny has recently finished writing a hiking guide for the
280-mile Trace, which stretches from Pickett State Park on the TN-KY state line
north through the Daniel Boone National Forest to Morehead, Kentucky, not too
far from Ohio.
John Cox at Marks Branch Falls

Johnny and John Cox left Pickett State Park on a warm day and
proceeded into the Biog South Fork National River and Recreation Area before
stopping to camp the first night. Fall colors were beginning to appear.
They cooked hamburgers that night, then proceeded down Rock Creek, seeing more
of what makes this area so great -- rock houses, massive boulders, arches,
waterfalls and everywhere-you look beauty that enhanced the trip.
They pushed on 17 miles that day and made a quick camp beside
a hemlock shaded stream before pushing on. This day was a little more
moderate, as their dogs were tired. Luckily, they once again found a creek
beside which to camp, jumping in Lake Cumberland to wash off the sweat and cut
down on the itching. See, they stupidly wore short pants on an open
stretch of trail. The lakeside camp also offered the option of going to
Yahoo Falls, Kentucky's highest waterfall. The above picture was taken as
Mark Branch Falls, which they also visited that day.
After this, they pushed past Lake Cumberland and into Indian
Creek, where they found another isolated camp and listened to the
Kentucky-Alabama footballs. Once again, the cool waters, this time
provided by Indian Creek, cut down on the severe itching of the chiggers that
were especially troublesome at night, in the warmth of the sleeping bags.
The final day took them to Cumberland Falls State Park via the
Cumberland River, where there were views aplenty of the mighty Cumberland River,
where rafters and kayakers ply their trade along here. The 64-mile trip
was just the first leg of the completing the entire 280-mile Sheltowee Trace!!!!
|